Automatic watches:
the only guide you need
No batteries. No cells. A machine that beats with your movement. We explain what they are, why they're worth it, and how to choose yours.
⚙️ What is an automatic watch?
An automatic watch is a mechanical watch that winds itself using the natural movement of your wrist. Inside, there's a rotor —a piece that spins as you move— which transfers energy to a mainspring. That spring stores the power and releases it gradually to move the hands.
A quartz watch has a second hand that ticks from one second to the next. An automatic has a second hand that sweeps smoothly, without jumps. Plus, in an automatic you can see the gears, the rotor, the jewels… it's a tiny engine on your wrist.
What if I don't wear it for several days? It stops. No problem. A few turns of the crown and it's running again. It's not an issue — it's part of the experience.
❤️ Why it's worth it
No more trips to the jeweler for a dead battery. The automatic works as long as you move.
With basic maintenance every few years, an automatic can last decades. Then pass it down.
The sweeping second hand, the soft tick-tock, the transparent case back… it's an object with soul, not an electronic device.
A classic design from 20 years ago is still elegant today. Smartwatches age like any technology.
You wear miniature engineering on your wrist, precisely assembled parts. There's something special about that.
An automatic isn't disposable. It's yours. Over time, it becomes part of you.
🛑 Common myths (and why they're false)
False. Modern automatics have shock protection systems. Daily use doesn't affect them.
Only if you don't wear them. If you wear it, the rotor keeps it charged automatically.
False. Anyone can use an automatic. You don't need to be an expert.
A normal automatic loses or gains between 10 and 20 seconds per day. For everyday life, it's irrelevant.
A complete service every 5-7 years costs less than €50 per year. Very affordable.
Depends on the model. Many have enough water resistance to shower or swim without issue.
🔍 How to choose your automatic (step by step)
Diameter is measured in millimeters, from left to right of the watch without the crown. It's the most important factor so the watch doesn't look huge or tiny on you.
• Slim wrist (14-16cm circumference): look for cases from 36mm to 39mm. A 44mm watch will look disproportionate.
• Standard wrist (16-18cm): ideal range is 39mm to 42mm. 40mm is the sweet spot that works almost always.
• Large wrist (>18cm): you can wear 42mm to 46mm without issue. Larger watches will suit you well.
👉 Tip: Measure the flat width of your wrist (the top part where the watch sits). The lug-to-lug distance shouldn't exceed that width.
Measured in meters (ATM or bars). It doesn't mean you can dive to that depth, but rather the pressure it withstands in static conditions.
• 30m / 3ATM: resists splashes and rain. Don't shower or swim with it.
• 50m / 5ATM: suitable for showering and surface swimming, but not diving.
• 100m / 10ATM: you can swim, snorkel, and shower without fear. Ideal for daily wear.
• 200m / 20ATM or more: recreational diving, immersion. Genuine dive watches.
👉 For most people, 100m is more than enough.
Protects the dial. There are three qualities, from best to worst:
• Synthetic sapphire: the best. Almost scratch-proof (only a diamond can scratch it). More expensive, but worth it if you want the watch to look like new for years.
• Mineral: standard in mid-range watches. Scratches over time, but cheaper to replace.
• Acrylic (plexiglass): the most basic. Scratches easily, but can be polished. Typical of vintage or very affordable watches.
👉 If you can afford it, choose sapphire. You won't regret it.
Defines style and comfort. You can change it later, but it's better to get it right from the start.
• Steel bracelet: the most versatile. They withstand everything, don't stain, easy to clean. Perfect for daily wear.
• Leather: elegant and classic. Ideal for dressing up or office environments. More delicate: sweat and water damage it.
• Rubber or silicone: comfortable, sporty, water-resistant. Widely used in dive watches.
• Fabric (nylon, canvas): military or adventure style. Breathable and durable.
👉 A steel bracelet is the safest option if you're only going to have one watch.
The number of hours the watch continues to run after you take it off. It depends on the length and quality of the mainspring.
• 38-42 hours: standard in basic movements. If you take it off Friday night, it will be stopped by Sunday morning.
• 70-80 hours: extended reserve. Lasts the entire weekend without issue. Very convenient if you rotate multiple watches.
• +100 hours: long reserve. Found in more advanced movements or multiple barrels.
👉 For most people, 40 hours is sufficient. If you have several watches, look for 70 hours or more.
The back of the watch can be solid steel or crystal (exhibition or "see-through" case back).
• Transparent case back (sapphire or mineral): you can see the rotor, jewels, and gears in motion. It's fascinating and a great conversation starter.
• Solid case back: more robust and watertight. Allows for engravings. Some prefer it for discretion.
👉 If it's your first automatic, I recommend a transparent case back. Seeing the machine in action is part of the magic.
Think about when and how you'll wear it. A single watch can work for almost everything, but there are nuances.
• For work / suit: look for sober colors (black, white, navy blue), thin case (less than 12mm), leather strap or discreet bracelet.
• For daily / casual: a versatile design, steel bracelet, legible dial, 100m water resistance. The all-rounder.
• For sports / adventure: rubber or nylon, rotating bezel, dial with good lume, minimum 100m resistance.
• For special occasions: elegant dial, complications (date, day), transparent case back to show off the mechanics.
🛠️ Basic care for a lifetime
If you don't wear it for a few days, give the crown 20-30 turns before putting it on. Not necessary daily.
Avoid changing the date between 10pm and 3am. The date-change gears are engaged during this period.
Soft microfiber cloth. For steel bracelets, mild soap and water from time to time.
Every 5-7 years: ultrasonic cleaning, oil change, regulation, and gasket replacement. This is the key to longevity.
❓ Frequently asked questions
Yes, if it has at least 100m water resistance and the crown is fully closed. For the sea, better 200m.
No, unless you have a perpetual calendar or moon phase that you find tedious to reset. Rotor wear is real.
Depends on its power reserve: between 40 and 80 hours. After that, it stops. Just wind it and you're good.
No. A quality automatic lasts decades. With maintenance included, it's more cost-effective than buying disposable watches every few years.
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